This event marked the 13th edition and over 40 designers showcased their latest collections over three days and the British Fashion Council announced new data for the menswear fashion industry highlighting that consumer spending is up 5.1%, meaning menswear now accounts for 26% of the total clothing market.
PRONOUNCE
AW19 is a visual poem of relaxed tailoring and more, appreciating the beauty of crafted structure lines. Delicate hand-sewn piping techniques were one of the highlights, which represented beams of light.
Pronounce
BOBBY ABLEY
For AW19, Abley revisits his childhood; balaclavas, scarves and baby blankets are all replicated, and hand knitted by his mother and relatives and incorporated within the collection as one-off pieces. The rest of the colours in the collection are inspired by Abley’s favourite characters from Pokémon.
Bobby Abley
BAND OF OUTSIDERS
The choice of colours and fabrics: warm hues including spice orange, burgundy and olive brown are balanced with camel, navy and black.
Band of Outsiders
LIAM HODGES
Liam Hodges has collaborated with Ellesse for AW19, reworking the firm’s ski-wear, using prints of salt crystals taken via a powerful microscope. The tracksuits draw from the projection of tesseract, a four-dimensional cube that exists within mathematics but that can only be rendered in 2D.
Liam Hodges
ROBYN LYNCHLOU DALTON
Lou has adopted the utilitarian silhouettes of the industrial workers depicted in these works, combined with the sparing palette of contrasting vibrant and muted tones originally used to accurately portray true life in the Soviet 1960s.
Lou Dalton
Inspiration for this collection came from Robyn’s father’s style, and archive footage of players and fans at the Dublin GAA games: both what was worn, and how they wore it, from a time before the self-consciousness of digital present day. As with her graduate collection, block colours were used in blue, white and green. Aran knit appears as a white sweater vest, with nylon inset in the sleeves to bag them out. Jeans are cut wide at the top and then belted high, as if a pair borrowed from your Dad. Nylon shorts are lined with fleece, cut high enough in the waist for there to be space to tuck your Aran sweater inside.
Robyn Lynch
STEFAN COOKE
Leather takes its reference point from the elasticated strip detail of a Chelsea boot to create a jacket and trouser that spectacularly split and open as they move. Knitwear stems from a manual-style 1950s book found in a charity shop with its front cover depicting a mosaic of girls playing hockey. Tailoring has an armour-like quality with waists taken in on coats and proportions lengthened.
Stefan Cooke
OLIVER SPENCER
AW19 is an Alpine journey of slow fashion with eco wools leading the way in beige, ochre, green, navy, and velvet and cord also play a large part. This collection is influenced by Alpine utilitarian clothing mixed with contemporary luxury. The stand out fabric is a woollen seersucker made into go-to suits, home-grown in Lancashire.
Images and Details: MenswearStyle
No comments:
Post a Comment